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Tinfoil Rock Mold, Reusable |
You start by creating a tin foil mold. They are reusable again and again. Lay out a tinfoil sheet about 18 inches long and smear Elmer’s style craft glue on it. Add another sheet of foil and repeat until you have built up four to five layers. Ensure good surface contact by placing books while it dries. Fold and wrinkle it to simulate a rock face. Long diagonal creases at different angles will appear like elongated cracks or fault lines in the slabs. You can crease up the edges to hold in a quarter to a half-inch deep pour of plaster, or you can continue with the next step.
Choose a piece of Styrofoam that will form the center of your hill. Hills are seldom perfectly round so form it into an irregular shape with slopes for sides. The Styrofoam edges will be covered by plaster so there’s no need to use the good expanded insulating foam. Feel free to use that crappy bubbly white stuff you were going to throw away. Then pat yourself on the back for helping save the environment.
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Shape a Styrofoam Core and Weigh it Down in the Center of the Tinfoil Mold |
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Pouring in the Plaster Around the Core |
Mix the plaster of Paris in accordance to the instructions on the packaging and add in the space between the Styrofoam core and the tinfoil mold. Fill up the mold until it is slightly past the edge of your Styrofoam core. Tap the Styrofoam and the outside of the mold to help release air bubbles in the
plaster. Believe it or not, you can remove your hill from this mold in about an hour. This will assist in drying. I let it sit overnight for good measure.
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Pour the Plaster Just Over the Edge of the Styrofoam. Curl the Edges of the Tinfoil so it Doesn't Collapse. It Dries Quickly. |
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Use a Knife to Knock off any Brittle Bits or High Points. |
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Remove Unwanted Portions and Sharp Edges that are Likely to Break Off Later. |
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First Coat, Level 1 Hill |
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Don't Forget to Coat the Bottom Too |
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Other Coats are Dabbed with a Sponge |
Add some white paint to the paint mix you already made, lightening up the color just a shade. I use a cut up kitchen sponge and dab the slightly lighter gray over 90% of the surface of the hill. Set in front of fan to dry. It should be done in 10-15 minutes. Add white paint again, lightening up the gray, but this time sponge on to approximately 80% of the surface. Don’t try to get the recesses, leave them darker. You are targeting only the higher points. Dry in front of the fan. Keep repeating this process with a lighter shade each time until only the very highest points on your hill are receiving the lightest shade of gray. By the time you are applying the final shade of very light gray, you will only be trying to cover about 5% to 10% of the surface. You could get a satisfactory result with just a few coats but it will look much better with the recommended 6-8 applications. If you use a fan to speed up drying time, you can keep the same paint mix going in between coats, adding just a little white between each one. This will speed up the process and your hills will be finished extremely quickly.
There are other painting techniques for plaster of Paris hills using washes. I feel that if you are going to be handling the hill, transporting it to the club and traipsing your minis all over it, the paint really needs the PVA mixed in with it to protect it and keep it from leaving chalky markings.
Add glue to the top surface and flock. If there are any horizontal creases or cracks in your surface where you can imagine grass or weeds growing from, you can place glue there as well and sprinkle with flock. I choose these spots by imagining seeds blowing in the wind and landing on a particular location on the hill. If the seed would take root and grow, I flock that area. If it would roll down the hill and perhaps get caught somewhere else, then I flock that spot instead. This really makes the hills ‘pop’ with eye-catching detail. Water down some more PVA (50/50) and a few drops of dish soap to help break the surface tension and drip or spray it onto your flocked surfaces to seal them. It may appear a bit milky at first but it will dry clear.
None of these techniques are new, but I haven’t seen them combined in this manner which is why I wanted to share them. I may be mistaken, so feel free to post links to your findings or if you discover similar builds, place them in the comments below!
My cost breakdown for these hills was approximately one US dollar each:
4-5 sheets of tinfoil at $0.26 (reusable for several plaster projects)
2 lb plaster at $1.36 (enough for two hills)
Cheap craft paint (black, brown & white) under $0.30
Elmer’s Glue under $0.14
Approximately 1 ounce of Woodland Scenics Flock $0.24
Finally, no one accomplishes anything by themselves and without the help of teachers and
mentors. Gamers are a community and I must recognize that the foundation of my (very limited) terrain building and game craft knowledge comes from the list of amazing Youtubers below. If you have any questions regarding terrain, dungeon crafting, tabletop wargaming, models or dioramas, you will want to check out these channels and support their efforts!
Mel the Terrain Tutor:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_aro8CTHw7ZD5H661hC6Q
Lukes Aps:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsmD5774MOQhjYBkXqu3Jdw
The Crafting Muse
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC92IlSbAqZY-TQv5pa4V1nQ
Kathy Millatt
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK-tzXpJ-rgXugc-eJfCtxg
Luke Towan
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjRkUtHQ774mTg1vrQ6uA5A
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Six to Eight Coats Later, Each Getting Progressively Lighter, Our Gray Hills are Nearly Finished! |
Add glue to the top surface and flock. If there are any horizontal creases or cracks in your surface where you can imagine grass or weeds growing from, you can place glue there as well and sprinkle with flock. I choose these spots by imagining seeds blowing in the wind and landing on a particular location on the hill. If the seed would take root and grow, I flock that area. If it would roll down the hill and perhaps get caught somewhere else, then I flock that spot instead. This really makes the hills ‘pop’ with eye-catching detail. Water down some more PVA (50/50) and a few drops of dish soap to help break the surface tension and drip or spray it onto your flocked surfaces to seal them. It may appear a bit milky at first but it will dry clear.
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Two Finished Hills. Less Than One Hour of Crafting, Not Including Drying Time. |
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Battletech Miniatures, Trebuchet and Spider for Scale. |
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Battletech Miniatures, Trebuchet and Spider for Scale. |
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Pathfinder Miniature Gnome Summoner, Surrounded by Warhammer 40K Orks |
None of these techniques are new, but I haven’t seen them combined in this manner which is why I wanted to share them. I may be mistaken, so feel free to post links to your findings or if you discover similar builds, place them in the comments below!
My cost breakdown for these hills was approximately one US dollar each:
4-5 sheets of tinfoil at $0.26 (reusable for several plaster projects)
2 lb plaster at $1.36 (enough for two hills)
Cheap craft paint (black, brown & white) under $0.30
Elmer’s Glue under $0.14
Approximately 1 ounce of Woodland Scenics Flock $0.24
Finally, no one accomplishes anything by themselves and without the help of teachers and
mentors. Gamers are a community and I must recognize that the foundation of my (very limited) terrain building and game craft knowledge comes from the list of amazing Youtubers below. If you have any questions regarding terrain, dungeon crafting, tabletop wargaming, models or dioramas, you will want to check out these channels and support their efforts!
Mel the Terrain Tutor:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_aro8CTHw7ZD5H661hC6Q
Lukes Aps:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsmD5774MOQhjYBkXqu3Jdw
The Crafting Muse
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC92IlSbAqZY-TQv5pa4V1nQ
Kathy Millatt
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK-tzXpJ-rgXugc-eJfCtxg
Luke Towan
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjRkUtHQ774mTg1vrQ6uA5A